As part of my preparations for the trip, I read John Steinbeck's The Log from the Sea of Cortez. Within the first thirty pages he takes time to describe one of my favorite Baja scenes, something I look forward to watching over and over again: the "Mexican frigates," aka pelicans.
And we only have some idea of where we are going. Once we are free from the regimen of airlines, airports, customs agents and money changers and have darted our way through the corridor of condo salesmen, we will step out into the warm Baja air and look for the Mexicans who are gathering and waiting for the next city bus. These buses are more interesting and efficient than the tourists' buses located nearer the airport, positioned for convenience. We rode one of these into Cabo San Lucas our first trip down. What I thought was a friendly courier on board with us was actually another friendly salesman hoping to talk us into spending precious Baja time touring condos, riding ziplines and swimming with dolphins in a tank. The city bus, filled with the sounds of the soft Spanish murmurings of other passengers, will take us directly to the bus station of San Jose del Cabo. There we can check the schedule for buses to Pescadero the next day. We will walk the mile and a half to the central downtown area where we will look for a hotel. I'm looking forward to the walk in the warm Baja after a day in airplanes with their stale air, even if I walk with the weight my pack on my back.
I remember a hotel in San Jose where we stayed last year. It is comprisesd of several buildings joined by stairs and catwalks. More intriguing than the catwalks is the breadth of selection in their take-one/leave-one library of English paperbacks. But then, we shouldn't be needing fresh reading material at this point in the trip and maybe we will try a new place, one that had no room for us last year.
After an evening in San Jose, spent brushing off our Spanish and enjoying a truly Mexican meal, we will return back to the hotel for a good night's rest, The next day we will take the ninety minute bus ride to Pescadero. Once there we will need to again walk a mile to our "new" hotel. What we've learned about Pescadero however, is that one rarely walks more than half a mile before being offered a ride, often communicated by a simple thumb-jerk to the back of the truck. Details such as "How far are you going?" get worked out enroute as the cab windows are always open and the pace on the bumpy dirt road is always slow.
We've reserved a casita in Pescadero for our first month in Baja. We know little about the "hotel" except for the promised wifi and proximity to the beach. At this point in the anticipation of a trip I am always intrigued with the balance of expectations and reality. I find myself simply hoping for warm relaxing days and a better look at Baja culture. Mostly, I am looking forward to the simple life of Baja where everything we need is on our backs or in our pockets and life is easy.
